Gusto da Gianni is an Italian restaurant, located on the river in the stylish but unpretentious Portside Wharf precinct. Although we chose it more for its location than for its reputation, we were rewarded with a pleasant experience.
The first thing we noticed on arriving was the funky chandelier made from about 20 desk lamps, pointing inwards and shaped like a UFO. The second thing we noticed was that the wait staff appear to have been flown in specially from Italy, complete with thick accents, to add that extra touch of authenticity. Impressive attention to detail!
A classic bruschetta was a nice way to start the meal ($9), and the billiard ball-sized ricotta and olive fritters with onion jam were an interesting and flavoursome entrée ($19).
Then on to the mains. I remember a (actual) restaurant critic saying once that the way judge the quality of an Italian restaurant is to order risotto or gnocchi. Risotto, I know from experience, takes quite a lot of time and manual labour. Gnocchi, I know from having watched MasterChef, takes a fine balance of ingredients and a very careful amount of cooking.
After years of being disappointed by exquisite-sounding risottos, we have just about given up on that particular acid-test – which leaves the gnocchi. Or, in the case of Gusto da Gianni, the “gnochetti”, which presumably means “small gnocchi” ($27). For me, the pleasure of gnocchi is as much about the texture as the taste, and on that score I couldn’t fault it. The taste, however, from the sauce of Moreton Bay bugs, chilli and tomato, was a little overpowering. The flavour was fine, but there was just too much of it. The other meals around the table – a Moreton Bay bug, tomato and red onion salad and a crumbed lamb rack – were much better balanced and well presented. Unlike my photography.
Overall, the experience was a good one at Gusto da Gianni. It may seem strange to judge an Italian restaurant without trying the pizza, but honestly, how hard is it to do a decent pizza?
- Gusto da Gianni, Portside Wharf, Remora Rd, Hamilton +61 7 3868 2011
Went to lunch, 2 of us shared pane, 4 antipasti and a risotto of the day. Not so good:-dip for pane-more balsamic than oil; meatballs dry and tomato sauce too salty; batter for zucchini flower chewy; sliced octopus rubbery, not tenderised. Good:- baby pepper sweet, its tuna and onion stuffing delicious; risotto,al-dente and sweet corn sauce goes well with salty pancetta. One of the best.
Hmm all in all it doesn’t sound like Gusto da Gianni is much of a HOT – too many poor dishes.
I don’t think it’s so bad. It’s a matter of taste!
Italian restuarants tend to disappoint when it comes to the more manual dishes to make. If it’s outside of boiling noodles, simmering a sauce, and handing you bread, many just won’t be capable of doing it.
Doug´s last blog ..How to Broil Hamburger
Hi Doug
Thanks for your comment. I think a mediocre Italian restaurant certainly can’t beyond boiling noodles etc – but there are many excellent Italian restaurants where even the noodle-boiling and sauce simmering is done well! Unfortunately I just don’t think in Brisbane Gusto da Gianni is that place….we’re on the lookout!
Jetsetting Joyce